Bregaglia, with its three alpine valleys Forno, Albigna and Bondasca, is every Although the valleys differ, they all offer a great choice of climbing walls, with. A lot of rock climbing can be accessed by a Swiss cable car to a dam. you can haul up a pile of gear and bivvy to get. a few days climbing done. Swiss Rock: granite Bregaglia. Author Chris Mellor Published Void () ISBN Review. + page guide book to rock climbing in the Albigna.

Author: Mikajinn Mazuhn
Country: Zimbabwe
Language: English (Spanish)
Genre: Video
Published (Last): 23 January 2010
Pages: 64
PDF File Size: 4.34 Mb
ePub File Size: 14.43 Mb
ISBN: 755-5-69746-216-7
Downloads: 86193
Price: Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]
Uploader: Targ

Thick clumps of cloud were jostling around us, obscuring everything at one moment then revealing surrounding tops. By Chris Mellor, the author of “Granite Bregaglia”. Climbing Destination Frankenjura – Limestone in the Limelight. It’s not that far from the Vicosoprano campsite and bus runs past. In the Forno and Albigna region, there are over thirty beautiful peaks waiting to be scaled.

Young Brits on Denali’s Cassin Ridge. Once at the summit we considered making a dash for the nearby bivouac refuge but, almost miraculously, the storm clouds moved away to the North and evening sunshine greeted us at the summit monument which was still fizzing with static electricity.

This has caused a path and a hut to be closed and several routes to be made dangerous to climb. It’s an open groove followed by a steep corner then an easy traverse out right. Many European teams were using triple rated singles, however, which is certainly worth looking at.

Selected climbs format guide to the crown jewel of the Bregaglia’s granite climbing; the Bondasca valley containing the Sciora peaks, the Cengalo and Breegaglia Badile.

Can you get away with microspikes on snow fields and still do the good stuff?

Rock Climbing in Bergell, Bergell

Please note that this is not an automatic process; if you order at So, is it a viable proposition for bregwglia mid-range HVS-E1 UK bregalgia with a reasonable amount of Alpine experience on less committing and technical undertakings? In reply to Dan Take the cable car up to the dam, some bolted slabs just off the path on the left as you head up should get you used to the grades. Thanks for the tips, looks to be a fun two weeks.


It was 4am in the Refuge and we tried to cram down some bread and jam. Val Bondasca is a seasoned climbers’ paradise and provides all sorts of unique climbing experiences.

Mushin – on 30 May Hearts pounding and lungs pumping, legs leaden, we wondered how on earth were we going to do this in the early hours of tomorrow morning with a full rucksack then go on to do a massive Alpine face?

Bregaglia, Rock climbing | theCrag

From Bondo take the unmade road up Val Bondasca to the parking at its end the 10CHF charge from ticket machine before barrier. In reply to Mushin: Eventually it was our turn. Thanks, Sasc Fura brdgaglia post lots of info when they open too. We ran the following easier pitches together, now in the full glare of the rising sun.

This translates into around pitches, although again this depends how much of the easier ground is run together. Usually from mid-june onwards I’d say the Cassin will be in condition, although the area received little snow this winter, so it could be opening up a bit earlier this year.

This is exactly the plan I’ve been getting started. The face kept coming at us until the very last, with another pitch culminating in a strenuous pull onto the ridge.

General information

We were now feeling quite relaxed and were possibly even mentally adding the “tick” to our climbing CVs. At the Albigna dam.

But a lot of the good climbing starts in Swtizerland!

Although regarded as one of the great Alpine north faces it hregaglia also considered the easiest. Dan Flynn cclimbing, Mark P. Outdoor Research is combining its decades of experience building highly dexterous, durable gloves with an innovative new material See the Bergell description on the Italian page for more info. Although this felt strenuous and committing it was in retrospect the only way to keep to schedule given our lack of practice in slick Alpine climbing.


Piz Badile, North-E Wall. For alpinists rising to the challenge of scaling these walls, there are four Swiss Alpine Cub SAC huts at the base of several of these impressive peaks. Get a train to somewhere like Chur and it’s not hard to hitch cli,bing the mountains. Add New Photo Photo Photo copy. Disappearing descents sounds a bit sketchy!

Extreme Alpinism by Mark The swiss buses are very reliable though.

Bregaglia Climbing 2018: Sciora Badile PDF

In reply to CurlyStevo: A combination of hard and easy pitches run out or moved together on would be ideal. Your login works with all Adventure Projects sites.

The second “crux”, a short traverse under a roof then a layback corner, turned clinbing to be straightforward and shortly we clumbing ourselves well above the second Bivouac Cassin and at the base of the Exit Chimneys. About 45 minutes from there to the Gianetti. Despite our head start the other teams were pulling away from us with incredible skill and slickness. Its aspect and form Badile means “shovel” means that a storm would quickly make the face a very serious place to be, with any precipitation on the upper reaches being funnelled down the route.

Every year, avid mountain climbers from around the world meet here to find new routes through this wild mountain landscape. We were regularly climbing around E1, were physically fit, and felt ready for the challenge. There were about five teams, bregagloa Italian or Swiss, heading for the Cassin and others for the North Ridge. Abseil descent of the route would be a massive undertaking, but an emergency descent could certainly be made to the Vire Mediante from any part of the upper section.